Madagascar

Let's Go to Mad

Day 1

Several people have asked that I write and post pictures so I'll do that here.

 

DAY 1:

 

As I write this it's about 4 AM Georgia time and I just left Johannesburg South Africa... But I digress... since I haven't even made it to Madagascar yet, I don't have anything to say and no real pictures to post.  But I feel like typing, so I'll tell you about the trip so far.

 

So Monday (20th Sept) morning I had to get up at 2 AM and leave by 2:30 AM to drive to Atlanta to catch the 6:25 AM flight.  Whoever thought leaving that early was a good idea should be shot! 

 

As luck would have it, the flight was delayed over an hour because of a "light-bulb issue" in the cockpit.  Doesn't sound all that critical to me, but someone thought it needed fixin.

 

Meanwhile, I'm supposed to land in LaGuardia, collect my two large checked in bags from baggage claim jump in a cab and go to JFK (14 miles away).

 

By the time we get in the air and I do the math, I "know" I can't possibly make my next flight.  According to the airline, you are "supposed" to check in three hours before an international flight.  At touchdown, I had less than 1 1/2 hours till take off.

 

But being the optimist, I hustle down to baggage claim and what do you know, my bags come out in the first batch.  Collect those two bags (for a total of four with my carry-ons) and run/hobble out to the taxi stand... only to find a VERY LONG taxi line.  It turns out that the UN was having an event in New York City so the cabs are somewhat scarce. 

 

1 hour and 15 minutes and counting...

 

I start counting heads and doing the math again.  About 50 people ahead of me.  Average of about 2 people per group with cabs coming about 45 seconds apart.  CRAP!  Yup, it took every bit of 20 minutes to get my own cab. 

 

55 minutes and counting...

 

About 14 miles to JFK.  My Cabbie was great!  He knew I was in a rush and I explained that my international flight was due to leave in less than an hour.  He made a "tisking" sound and then stomped the gas.  He bounced off of 90 MPH during one little stretch and even with New York traffic managed to get me there in 16 minutes.  Yes, he got a big tip.

 

39 minutes and counting...

 

I run/hobble to the VERY empty South African Airline counter and approach the VERY disinterested looking woman behind the counter and before I could even begin to beg, she informed me that the flight was closed.  As the only other two SAA employees approached (no doubt to see a wanna-be passenger have a coronary from the-just-run marathon), I said to her..."Yes Maam, I'm very certain it is closed.  But you have the power to get me on that plane.  So what-do-ya-say?"  or something to that affect. 

 

After a few contemplative seconds and a stare down to see if I would blink, she suddenly embraced her new mission in life and began barking orders to the other two employees.  As it turns out, it's a little more difficult than I thought to "UN-Close" a flight.  (as I write this, I'm two hours from Madagascar so I will soon see if my bags made it...)  the last I saw of them, they were being loaded on a special cart to be hustled directly to the plane.  (I think bag screening can get real "optional" when people are trying to beat the clock).

 

In not so many words, the NOW Interested South African Airline Lady tells me to "run" to security and get to the gate pronto... So being the obedient "Gonna-be" passenger, I break into a trot towards the x-ray machines.  My optimism was on the rise and I was feeling somewhat gleeful thinking I can just breeze through what appears to be an almost empty security gate, when I turn the corner and am met head-on with a wall-of-humanity. 

 

22 minutes and counting...

 

Now this may sound a bit anti-Semitic and I don't mean it be, but there was about two hundred VERY-JEWISH people with LOTS of kids clearly going on some pilgrimage to some far off land that required international travel.  I couldn't understand most of what they were saying but in my mind it translated to "The Home Land Awaits!". 

 

For the next 10 minutes or so I stood neck deep in baby carriages and men with inappropriately long strands of curly hair protruding from their black hats, dressed in impossibly complicated religious garb  -  "foot shuffling" forward their carry-on bags that didn't stand a chance of fitting in any known overhead bin...

 

...AND THEN I SEE HER... my angel from the SAA counter (in her now very attractive blue vest with stained white shirt)... I know she saw me back there...the only one without a hat and not wearing black clothes craning my neck so as to get her attention.  SHE was cutting line.  Walking straight to the mouth of the x-ray machine with her clipboard and personal bag.  I pleaded with my eyes for her to take me with her, but all I got was a "pinky-wave".  Now here I thought we had bonded  -deep sigh-  and then she was gone.

 

11 minutes and counting...

 

For what seemed like an eternity I shuffled forward watching in agony as one pilgrim after another failed every security etiquette test known to the TSA.  Our 9/11 spawned rent-a-cops went hoarse bellowing ridiculously similar commands like "YES, the stroller must be folded up and must go through the x-ray machine" and "NO, I said it must be folded first" and "YES, you MUST take the baby out" and "You must empty your pockets" and "I SAID, empty ALL your pockets" and "YES, BOTH SHOES must come off" ... well you get the picture.  For those of you familiar with airport travel, you can appreciate how thankful I was that this group didn't seem to be carrying laptops.  I would still be there.

 

-1 minute and counting...

 

FINALLY, I'm the next to go.  I practically attach myself to the guy in front of me going through the metal detector, when upon setting off the alarm he gets in a (yiddish laden) argument about why he shouldn't have take off his metal-laced suspenders because they were holding up his pants.  As he steps aside to continue the argument, I slide sideways through the metal detector, snatch my bags and shoes and hustle to the "put-yourself-back-together" table.  I could have sworn I heard a TSA agent now afflicted with laryngitis say something about my ninja-like slide by, but I decided to ignore it and simply brace for the body slam, which thankfully never came.

 

As I break into an all out run towards Gate A28 I pass a young fellow with a SAA blue vest that asked me if I was Baldwin.  I wheezed out a "yes" and kept going.  As if to be impossibly redundant, I heard him mutter "you better hurry".  -grunt-

 

My gate was easy to spot, even without the signage, because there were about eight more blue vested people standing in the center walk way clearly amused by my galloping approach.  My angel, with a somewhat dimmer halo, leaned over and whispered in another girls ear while simultaneously giving me the pinky-wave again.  (in retrospect she might have simply been performing a reenactment of the previous events... I guess I'll never know)

 

My ticket gets scanned and as I pass through each successive door I can hear the unmistakable sound of a lock engaging behind me.  Finally I make it into the actual airplane and am greeted with very polite and knowing smiles from the crew.  Even before I make it to my seat, I hear the announcement that the doors are now shut, seat-backs must be in the forward locked position, tray-tables should be secured and all mobile devices should be off... blah... blah... blah.  I manage to get a quick text message off to those praying for me and turn off my phone.

 

-4 minutes and no longer counting...

 

The rest of the trip was somewhat uneventful.

 

Day 2 - Tana Hotel

Colin picked me up at the airport and we made our way into the Capital "Tana".  Before we got our "Hotel"... picts below.  We learned that our flight for the next day was cancelled.  So we spent an hour or so making other arrangements.  God took mercy on me again and we were able to secure a 7 AM flight on a chartered plane directly to Ste Marie island.  Our only other alternative was going to be an 8 hour bus ride to Tamatave (where Kim and Colin live).  Needless to say I was very happy to avoid the bus ride.

 

Kim and the boys will be joining us this afternoon on Ste Marie.

 

My little camera doesn't do this place justice.  It is an island paradise.

My classy accommodations in Tana the Capital of Mad
Pretty in Pink!
The only shot of the airport that came out.
Shot through the plane window... looks better in real life. This island is only about 3.5 miles wide and 35 miles long.
Our cabbie on Ste Marie island
Quick road race
Unload the luggage and put it all on Proges (canoes)
At least I don't have to paddle...
One of our new South African friends.
Colin is sitting behind me... the guy with the pole is taking us to our bungalow.

Ockie's Place

So I landed in Tana the capital and Colin picked me up.  Our flight to Tamatave(sp?) got cancelled so we got a flight directly to the Ste Marie island the next morning.  Kim and the boys flew in later that day.  I think that was the 22nd - but I'm not 100% sure since it's a little blurry!
 
To put it in perspective... my house is larger than the airport terminal.  Way bigger!  In order to get to our accommodations we had take a cab for about a mile, then put our luggage and ourselves in the canoes and get ferried across the water to yet another island.  The bungalow was spectacular!  Mosquito netting and all.  Very tropical island like.  The cost for my single bungalow was about $20 +/- per night.  You should be able to tell by the pictures that you couldn't get it much closer to the water!
 
All electric is provided by generator.  The cost of fuel is high, so they only ran the generator from 8AM-10AM and then from 5PM-10PM.  After that you were operating by oil lamp.  One had to be ensure to recharge batteries or you were simply out of luck!  The internet was sometimes spotty and you have to buy credits.  So accessing email became a bit of an art.  Big surprise I ran out of credits very quickly and we had to go into town on the main island to purchase more.  Cost was about $2.50 an hour, but Colin said he thinks the day rate is higher, which would explain why I burned up the credits.
 
Ockie is the owner of the "hotel".  He is South African and looks like a blend of ZZ-Top and Captain Jack.... long beard and all.  The chef's name is Oliver and he looks kinda like Snoop Dog.  PepPay was the waiter, bartender and all around go to guy.  Upon arrival PepPay offered me a sip of "Vanilla Juice" from a big glass (about 3 gallon) bottle.  It was apparently a community straw which normally I wouldn't do, but when in Rome... I wasn't surprised to find that the Vanilla Juice was actually Vanilla Rum.  So let the fun begin!
 
The front of my private bungalow
Standing on the beach view of the bungalow
View of beach from bungalow
Picts of the little club house
The owner is "Ockie" (sp?) a South African
Club house "Bar"
That's me with the windblown look!
Colin is working on my laptop...
Floating tour bus
Paradise


All of the staff were very nice and we interacted with ease.  We met a young South African couple.  Arrived the same day as us and all meals were served family style so we got to know them quite well.  It was amazing how many countries we all had in common.  In a past life they taught English in Taiwan, traveled to the Philippines and Cambodia.  So it was fun talking about places that we all had in common.  The ladies name escapes me, but she stepped on a sea urchin at one point.  I didn't realize how toxic those things are until I saw her foot swell up.  She took it like a champ, but you could tell she was in absolute agony.  I provided a stash of pain killers and Colin performed some first aid.  She was doing much better the following evening but it underscored the fact that if you had a medical emergency out there you were pretty much screwed.
 
Ockie's dog, Teddie, shown in some of the pictures used to belong to another South African couple that lived on the island.  They were murdered by two disgruntled employees a few months ago and that's how the dog came to be with Ockie. 
 
The black and white Lemur's name is Eddie.  He actually belongs to another hotel owner but apparently escaped and keeps coming back to Ockie's place.  Very friendly and will allow you to pet him for the mere cost of one banana.
 
Ockie's Dog Teddy
Eddie
South African lady that stepped on a Sea Urchin
Lots of Hikes
PepPay "Waiter"
Family Style
Ockie


Colin and I did a little hiking the first day.  We went about a third of the way around the island.  The pictures don't it justice.  I quickly learned that Madagascar was a birthing place for sperm whales.  We were told that five to twenty thousand whales pass along their shores each August and September.  Unfortunately we just missed the whales.  Taking a chance anyway Colin, Angelo and I took one of the last whale watching tours of the season.  It was a disaster!  The seas were rough and it rained about an hour into the trip.  Never did see a whale and I would have paid triple the price to be taken back to my little paradise at high speed.  Instead is was a three or four hour nightmare.  Cold, wet and miserable. 

I now hate whales!  I wonder what they taste like...
 
The following day we hired Flora, the canoe guy, to take us around the island and take us to a good snorkeling spot.  Colin and the boys hung out on the beach while Flora took me out a ways.  I wish I had listened to that little voice that had told me to shave that morning.  Because I had a beard, the mask wouldn't seal.  So as soon as put my head in the water, the mask filled up.  So snorkeling was a bust.  Instead I hung on to the bottom-front of the canoe and Flora towed me around.  The water is crystal clear so I could still see pretty well. 
 
Flora - the canoe guy
Taking a Break
Kids will be Kids
Nice ending to the Day
Whale Watching Sucks!


HOWEVER, as we neared shore, the water got really shallow quickly and I could see that he was about to drag me over a whole bed of sea urchins.  So you have to picture me clinging (upside down humping) onto the front-bottom of the canoe, screaming at Flora to back up all the while becoming one with the boat.  If I had let go, I would have looked like a human pin cushion.  After seeing how bad just ONE spike can mess you up, let alone dozens and with my allergic reaction to bee stings, I would have probably been near death. 
 
Our last day was spent doing absolutely nothing.  Kim, Colin and I simply sat around and talked smart.  It was very relaxing. 
 
That final night we made some more friends as some more South Africans showed up.  As it turns out the leader of the group, Manni, was the head guy for one of the mining projects.  They were a blast, playing guitar and singing semi-American songs.  Late that night I got into a dice game with Ockie, Oliver and Manni's son.  We played three consecutive games and each time the bets got bigger.  I finally won the last game and came out about $30 ahead (if my conversion is right). 
 
I went to bed at 1AM and we had to get up at 4 AM to catch our boat back to the main island of Madagascar... so that wasn't too bright of me... <sigh>
 
Following about a one+ hour boat ride, we got on a bus and it took about three hours to get to Kim and Colin's place in Tamatave.  This wasn't too fun considering the body odors that insulted your senses... Hello people... ever hear of deodorant!
 
Right now I am checked in a four star hotel near Kim and Colin's place.  Four stars is laughable by American standards and I would gladly trade the 24/7 electricity for my little bungalow back at Ockie's place.
 

 

Lot's of walking
My Nephews
Beautiful
Fish Head
Kit being goofy
End of Long Day

Third Nipple

So... This is one of those things that I'm not sure I should put in print, but feel I must. 

I think I have developed a third nipple. 

Well maybe not really a third nipple, more likely a bug bite that kind of resembles an extra nipple.  There is a name for those afflicted with an extra one... but I can't remember what it's called.  Anyway... now I have an idea what an extra nipple feels like. 

I can't help but wonder if they are supposed to itch.  I suspect not.  So even as I write this, I am leaning toward it being a bug bite. 

Now see... even as I weigh the pros and cons of posting this... I visualize my dear mother jerking back in her chair with a quick intake of breath... covering her mouth in disbelief.  And just as quickly relaxing in her chair, shaking her head and muttering out loud something to the affect of ... "why am I not surprised?" or "who raised this kid?".

I must remember to ask her when I get home.

Since I'm confessing these quandaries in my life.  I will say I'm a little disappointed about something.  Maybe disappointed isn't quite the right word... maybe I'm just a little insulted and feeling a little left out of the true Malagasy experience.

Not unlike other developing countries, Madagascar is supposed to be laden with prostitutes.  Various articles and tourist write-ups mention this fact as a warning.  Kim and Colin also repeatedly warned me to be on the look out.  Since my French and Malagasy language skills are essentially Zilch, I was prepared to be extra careful to not blindly agree to anything if I didn't totally understand the question... else the agreement could end with unintended results.

So my issue isn't that I want to negotiate with a hooker... but I've been here almost a week and I haven't even been approached!  So it begins to make me think... what's wrong with me?  Do I look broke?  Am I too sunburned or is it my wind-blown hair?  It's really kind of insulting. 

Hmmm... maybe... just maybe it's my third nipple...

It's dark out... maybe I'll go for another walk...

~ Sorry Mom

 

Mad Politics

Political Climate in Madagascar:

So as it turns out Mad doesn't actually have a legitimate government.  The acting president, isn't really a president at all.  From what I can gather, he simply organized the "outing" of the previous guy.

The new guy, rallied a bunch of demonstrators under the pretense that the, then existing, president wasn't doing enough for the poor people of Mad. 

By all accounts the old president was very much into free enterprise.  Under his rule, people that worked hard and succeeded were able to profit.  The new guy promised a little something for nothing to all Malagasy.

Needless to say the something-for-nothing struck a chord with many people and the old guy was overthrown even though the new guy was in no way qualified to lead the country.

Big surprise that now everything is being taxed to the empth degree.  The poor are actually getting poorer, jobs provided by free enterprise are disappearing and the wealthy are withdrawing from the marketplace.

It should be no surprise that now the people want this new guy out and someone else in power.  I'm betting the old guy is thinking "do you miss me yet?".

Funny... this sounds familiar to me, but I can't quite put my finger on it....

 

Angelo and Kitika (Kit)

Angelo and Kitika (Kit)

Perhaps two of the biggest miracles are Angelo and Kit.  They are the two very tan children that continuously invade the camera lens.

It cannot be disputed that Kim and Colin saved their lives, very literally and now call them both "Son".  Angelo's adoption was completed a couple of years ago.   He has been to the U.S. and has a special relationship with his cousins, my children, nieces and nephews.  Angelo is eleven or twelve years old, but for the purposes of a permanent birthday he is officially eleven on paper.

I think that he looks like a young Muhammad Ali.

Angelo is impressive as he switches between Malagasy, French and the English language with ease.  There is no question that he has a very high I.Q. and has the opportunity to do great things in life. 

I can't help but think that I might be related to the future President of Madagascar.

Kitika:

Until now Kitika has only been an image of an emaciated being, devoid of all life, with one glance, I grimace and turn away.  It has been about eighteen months since the first skeletal pictures graced my inbox.  Kit is six and half years old with the body of a toddler, but growing quickly.  He apparently didn't speak for many months when he first came to live with the Radford's and now you can't shut him up.

His English is a little spotty, but if you ask him who his favorite uncle is you will hear my name within his tongue-rolled response. 

Kit's size is nowhere near proportionate to his attitude!  He WILL be the center of attention, else he will be an overwhelming distraction.  I look forward to seeing him when he visits the States.  I have no doubt that every airline passenger will know who he is by the end of the journey.  I think he will fit nicely in the overhead storage bin.

For those of you that remember the old TV show Paradise Island... you may appreciate the pictures below.  Think of a much darker Tattoo pointing at the sky telling Mr. Rourke ..."Le Plane... Le Plane".

Have you ever wondered...

Have you ever wondered...

At one time or another, all of us have dropped off unwanted clothing at Goodwill, Salvation Army or a church clothing drive.  Have you ever wondered what happens to all those clothes that aren't resold in the U.S. or further donated to our landfill?

Personally I never really pondered on this question too much.  However, I do recall a few occasions when one of my favorite, but perhaps off-colored or raggedy-but-comfortable shirts disappeared, curiously coinciding with a Goodwill drop-and-run. 

I still morn the absence of that one shirt that kind of resembled doctor scrubs, it had a bleach stain that looked like a horse.  Now THAT was a comfortable shirt.

Well... I'm here to tell you that some of your previous "can't-live-without" garments, find their way to places like Madagascar.  It turns out that importing huge bundles of unwanted clothes from the U.S. is a very organized business over here.  A "bale" might contain 50 to 100 pieces of clothing and might cost $75 to $125 depending on the seasonal clothing type.

Entrepreneur types purchase the bundles, sort the clothes and resell them by the piece for a profit.  The Malagasy that buy these individual cast-offs are only interested in clothing for the sake of being clothed.  They don't care at all about fashion, color-coordination or exact fits.  Many of the shirts are laden with American advertising, promotional logos or some long forgotten catch-phrase-fad that failed to resonate with the previous owner.

The net result can be very humorous and sometimes very inappropriate, but the wearer has no idea what it says.  Bon Jovi, Miley Cyrus and the New Jersey Oncology Clinic should be proud to know that their memory is still alive and well in the back alleys of Madagascar.  Americans might be interested to know that there is a little Malagasy boy who's T-Shirt proclaims that HE is the "Future President of the United States". 

I'm just betting that he too claims to be born in Hawaii.

Yesterday at the beach I spied what looked to be a coconut-collector dressed as a doctor from the waist up.  As I drew closer, I couldn't help but think about how comfortable he looked.  When I saw the rough outline of a faded white horse I realized that the seemingly impossible had happened.  It could only have been God's will that I be reunited with my favorite shirt.  How else can you explain it?  When he regains consciousness I hope he will forgive me. 

Meanwhile, I wonder how you say "Dry Cleaner" in Malagasy, I really need to find one.